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Steve asks: A lot of homes in my town outside Philadelphia are about 100 years old and made of stone or brick walls (no exterior wall insulation). They lose a lot of heat in the winter and it is usually not a good idea to add an interior insulation barrier.
Are there any economical options for adding exterior layer of insulation?
Thank you,
Steve
Answer:
Steve, it will be very difficult for you to insulate the exterior walls if they are old construction, which is typical brick, concrete or cinder block with masonry, wire lathe and plaster. I would not even try to insulate these walls because it will never provide you with a ROI that you could justify.
A more efficient use of your time and money would be to perform an energy efficiency audit with a blower door test on the home and, assuming the house is inefficient, focus on stopping air infiltration leaks. You may find that the loss of heat through windows, under/around doors, in connected garages, through ceilings/outlets, etc... may be significant.
Also, if your attic is not insulated that should be an area to scrutinize for loss of heat. By investing in new energy efficient windows you may realize significant improvements in heat loss.
Focus on installing windows that have a higher R-Value, such as triple paned argon-filled windows with high-performance "Low-E" coatings while reducing the house's air infiltration rate, you may notice a difference right away.
I think adding windows and
Wed, 02/09/2011 - 20:09 — Helder (not verified)I think adding windows and doors without doing some Btuh/cost savings analysis is misguided at best.
If the exterior walls of these homes are brick or stone, but have wood framing, you can likely insulate very successfully through the interior or exterior, whichever is easier, with dense-packed cellulose.
If you can't do that, it may be possible to sheath the entire house with 2" polyiso foam board. That would be an awesome thermal mass that would maintain temperatures really well. The key is to make sure that sheathed wall is also a tight air barrier. Otherwise, you may as well not do anything.
Provide us some more information of the layers of construction in the homes in question and we'll surely be able to get into more detail about possible solutions.
Good luck,
Helder Cristovao
180 yr old home
Sat, 04/02/2011 - 00:29 — Todd (not verified)I'm currently renovating a home built in 1834. It has 3 rows of brick for the exterior walls with plaster on the inside. We removed all the plaster and put new windows in. The rafters are all exposed top and bottom and intend on isulating the attic well. Ive heard all the pros and cons of insulating the inside by furing out and even insulating the outside. We are going to use hot water in floor radiant heat in the back half of the house and hot water base board in the front half. By what Ive heard about all this thermal mass hot water should heat the 12" thick brick walls being the thermal mass better and more efficient than forced air. Any thoughts or comments or advice on what I intend on doing?
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